Easter, the greatest Christian
feast, is at our doorstep. Hvar is truly a unique place
to visit at Easter time, because it offers experiences fundamentally attached
to the traditions of the island. The origins of a unique Procession are
linked to a period of peasant revolt against Venetian governance when,
according to the legend, Sveti križić (Holly Little Cross) started to bleed
before a conflict. In over five centuries of celebration, the tradition has
never been interrupted, not even in wartime or followed by really bad weather. This
celebration is valued by UNESCO as the Intangible Cultural Heritage. History speaks
loudly here.
Photo from www.min-kulture.hr |
For more
than 500 years, Maundy Thursday is dedicated to Procession ‘Za križen’ (‘Following
the Cross’). This is an expression of the religious and cultural identity of
the population of the central part of Hvar Island. The mass is simultaneously
held in the six parishes of Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj and Vrboska.
The procession then follows a 25-kilometre course into the early morning hours
of Good Friday. Because each of the six groups start from their respective
churches and follow the course in a clockwise direction, the groups never meet.
Photo from www.min-kulture.hr |
Each
group is lead by a cross-bearer who walks the course either barefoot or in
socks, carrying the 18 kilos heavy cross, never resting. It is a great honour
to be a cross-bearer, a one time opportunity that will never be forgotten. The
cross-bearer, formerly selected from among religious brotherhoods, registered
up to twenty years in advance, has a much-desired and respected position,
reflecting the devotion of the individual bearer and his family. He is followed
by two friends with candelabra and others carrying candles and lanterns, five
choral singers (kantaduri) who sing the Lamentation of the Virgin Mary at
several points along the way and many pilgrims of all ages from Croatia and
abroad.
They
stop in front of churches and chapels in other villages where greeted by
priests and return to their parish church before dawn when the cross-bearer
runs the last hundred metres to receive the blessing of his home priest.
Photo from http://www.tzjelsa.hr |
The oldest cross-bearer in 20th century was Luka Bojanić, 83 years old, carried the cross for Vrisnik in 1934. The
youngest cross-bearer in 20th century was Svetko Marijan, 12 years
old, carried the cross for Pitve in 1953.
(Information from Kruvenica Hvar Facebook page
http://www.facebook.com/kruvenica.hvar?ref=ts&fref=ts )
http://www.facebook.com/kruvenica.hvar?ref=ts&fref=ts )
St. Stephens Cathedral |
Another Easter tradition called ‘Through God’s Graves’ takes place in Hvar town
in the afternoon of Good Friday. Fraternities from St. Cross and St. Nicolas,
one dressed in black tunics, the other in white, begin their procession in
different churches.
Later on, they come together at Pjaca, the old Venetian town
square - the largest and perhaps the most beautiful square on the Adriatic, to
sing the ancient melody Popule Meus in front of the St. Stephens Cathedral.
This event takes place in the evening. During this time all activity in the
centre of the town stands still to honour this ancient tradition. The
procession is illuminated by candles and lanterns.
Sirnica |
For those who are longing for a spring break, indulging in sunshine, warm
weather, awakening nature, inspiring tradition, Hvar is an excellent choice.
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